Adoption Questionnaires:

Dog Adopter Guide

Dog Adopter Guide

Dog Supplies Checklist

Meeting Your Dog’s Needs
Adding any new family member, especially the four-legged kind, requires a certain amount of
equipment and some adjustments to your home for everyone’s safety and comfort.
Here’s a list of must-have supplies for a great start with your new dog:

[ ] Food
[ ] Water bowl
[ ] Bed, blanket, towels
[ ] Crate and/or baby gate
[ ] Long leash, short leash
[ ] Flat collar w/ID tags (to be worn at all times)
[ ] Head halter or anti-pull harness (for walking)
[ ] Poop bags

Dog Care
[ ] Dog toothbrush, dog toothpaste
[ ] Nail clippers
[ ] Dog shampoo
[ ] Grooming brush
[ ] Flea control treatment*

Training and Mental Stimulation
[ ] Food dispensing toys (KONG® toys, treat balls)
[ ] Puzzle toys (hide-and-seek, treat wheels)
[ ] Training treats (soft treats, freeze-dried meats)*
[ ] Plush toys (with or without squeakers), rope toys
[ ] Edible chews (rawhide, bully sticks, pig ears)*
*Consult your vet for recommendations

Setting Up Your Home

Tempting as it is to give your new dog the run of the house right away, that’s too much freedom too soon. Instead, create a safe, confined area—a dog-proofed area—to allow your dog to make a gradual transition to his new home. The dog-proofed area is where your dog will stay when you can’t supervise, i.e. whenever you can’t keep your eyes on him the entire time. This prevents chewing accidents, house-training accidents, and teaches your dog to relax while alone. Don’t worry that this is too strict or in any way mean. Dogs are den animals who enjoy close quarters.

Where? The ideal dog-proofed area is easy to clean and easy to close off with a door or baby gate. It should be mostly free of furniture. The best places for a dog-proofed area are the kitchen, laundry room, bathroom, or an empty spare room.

What? Furnish the dog-proofed area with a bed or a crate with something soft to sleep on, a water bowl, and several toys, including a chew toy or a KONG stuffed with part of your dog’s meal.

Bringing Your New Dog Home

Congratulations on adopting the newest member of your household! We have provided some suggestions to help your dog adjust easily to his/her new home and family. Dogs will adapt more quickly if you set up familiar routines, surroundings and relationships. Environmental changes can be difficult for animals, so please be patient and follow our recommendations for a smooth transition.

Have a good sniff! Take your dog for a walk around your home, allowing him to check out his new surroundings and get a good sniff of everything. If you are unsure about whether or not your dog is fully house‐trained, you’ll want to have a leash on him so that you can quickly whisk him out the door should you see any accidents about to happen. His outdoor potty spot should be included in the initial tour of your home.

Potty Training: Have a designated area for your dog to sleep at night. First thing in the morning take her out to where you want her to relieve herself. You should accompany her for the first few weeks to ensure that business is being taken care of outside and not inside. Until you feel comfortable that your dog will not make accidents, it’s best to confine her to a certain space where she can’t keep making “mistakes” without your supervision. You can only correct the behavior when is happening. A simple “no” and a redirect to the outdoor potty spot should be adequate. Severe reprimands can ruin your relationship and send your dog hiding to do her business.

Set Routines: Your new dog will do best in a home with clear rules and boundaries that are consistently re‐enforced. Setting up routines are helpful (mealtime, bedtime, walks, playtime, etc.) as it’s reassuring to your dog to know what to expect.

Home Alone: When your new dog is left at home alone, he should be contained to ensure that he stays safe and is not destructive. This could be a kennel, bathroom, laundry room, or mudroom with a baby gate across (not a closed door) so that he doesn’t feel shut off from the rest of the house. Leave some safe chews, some soft music and make sure he has been recently walked or well‐exercised first. A dog that is not used to being crated will need to be crate trained first.

Backyard Dogs: Your new dog is now part of your family. As social animals, dogs prefer to be in the home with you, rather than left in the backyard. Even when you are gone, your dog will be more comfortable in the home with all your smells and familiar surroundings. Left in the yard, dogs are at risk of escaping, destructive digging, annoying neighbors, exposure to the elements and at the very least, loneliness. If you have to leave your dog in the yard on occasion, make sure the dog is secure (proper fencing, etc.) and has access to clean water and shelter from the weather (hot, cold, rain, etc.).

Kids: You will need time to properly introduce your dog to children slowly, one at a time. This is not to be rushed. Also, children should learn how to respect your dog as a new member of the family.

Build on Success! There is no telling what your new dog has been through in the past. Please be patient and don’t raise your expectations too high for your dog to succeed. You and your dog will be frustrated and this is not the best way to build a new relationship. Woods has trainers on staff that will be happy to answer any behaviors questions you may have. Please don’t hesitate to call. Our goal first and foremost is for you and your new dog to live happily ever after!

What to Expect with a New Dog

It can take 6 months for dogs to adjust to a new home and form a bond with new owners. Here are some considerations to help the first several days and weeks easier on the dog and you.

When you first get home, leave the leash on and allow the dog to sniff around his new home briefly and then go outside. Bring the dog to the spot you want him to use as potty and give him time to do so. Setting him up for success by providing a potty break almost immediately is a great way to start off a routine.

Do your best to avoid dinner parties, family outings, dog parks or beaches where dogs are likely off leash for at least the first two weeks. Your dog is not ready to meet a bunch of new people or dogs yet. Many dogs become overwhelmed with these types of activities until they have had a chance to get to know you better and adjust to a new home.

Be respectful of your new dog’s space and avoid hugging and kissing as many dogs find it threatening. Instead try calm, gentle petting when you know your dog is relaxed. Many dogs are not comfortable with excessive displays of affection, especially from people they don’t know.

Dogs thrive with a routine. Be consistent and predictable. Set a schedule for feeding and potty breaks.

Leave the leash on! Grabbing the collar of a dog you just met is not a good idea. The leash will give you space to control without getting too close. Whenever you need to direct the dog, grab the leash instead of the dog’s collar.

Limiting access to the entire home can prevent accidents and destruction of property. If you plan to crate, know that not all dogs have been in a crate before so expect it to be hard for them. Use baby or pet gates to confine the dog to one room, keeping him with you at first, to catch accidents before they happen. Supervision is recommended once your dog is gradually given more freedom and learns your household rules.

Potty mistakes are inevitable; accept that they will happen and prepare for them. Your dog has signals; you just don’t know them yet. Take your new dog out often during the first week. Take care of the potty break before the dog has any fun. Reward after the “go,” with a nice walk, breakfast, or freedom in the home.

Separation anxiety is a distress response, not the result of disobedience or spite. It can present as anxiety, drooling, panting, or as destructive attempts at escape. The approaches to treating separation anxiety can vary depending on the severity. Puzzle toys or a stuffed Kong can be a good way of making dogs with mild separation anxiety feel better about being left alone. Rewarding for calm behavior after short departures can also be helpful. Severe separation anxiety may require veterinary attention and the use of medication.

Woods trainers are a valuable resource at your disposal. If you experience struggles while your dog is adjusting to the new home, please contact us! We are here to help make this a successful match for you and your new family member.

Introducing Dogs and Cats

The Introduction Process
The first introduction between your current pet and your new pet is a very important part of the process. Introductions of a dog to a cat(s) at the shelter can be highly stressful or traumatic for all of the cats and possibly the dog. Also, it is not necessarily a good indicator of how the dog will react at home. Therefore at Woods we are unable to perform a cat and dog introduction test as it does not truly indicate how the dog will respond to living with a cat. Here are four steps to do at home that can help you ensure a successful meeting:

Step 1: Choose the proper location for the first meeting
Resident cat to new dog: If you are adopting a dog the introduction should take place in the home in a safe setting with the dog on leash.

Step 2: Separate the animals
Over a few days, rotate which animal has freedom and which is confined to allow each animal plenty of time to investigate the other’s scent (you can also rotate blankets between the cat and dog so they can investigate the other one’s scent).

Sometimes the dog should be confined to a crate or another room (or taken to another location if they can’t be left alone) to allow the cat time to roam free and investigate the smell of the dog.

If the dog obsessively digs at the separation barrier or barks at the cat for more than a day or two, the interaction likely won’t work without proper training. You may need the help of a professional. Please contact us at (805) 543‐9316 x 24 or for assistance.

When no one is home the dog or cat must always be securely confined to prevent unsupervised interactions.

Use these first few days to work with your dog on responding to his/her name so you can get attention easily when starting the face‐to‐face introductions. Using treats; call your dog’s name once, wait for him/her to turn and look at you. When he/she does say “yes” and give a treat and a happy smile!

Once the dog is calm (or at least not obsessed with the cat) and the cat is calm, eating and using the litter box normally, you can proceed to the next step.

Training tip: If the dog stares at the cat or the door separating the cat, try to distract the dog and get him/her to look away with treats, a happy voice or by gently guiding the dog away on a leash. Once the dog is away from the cat, try offering a treat. If they take it, repeat this process until he/she is no longer focused on the cat or door.

Step 3: Make controlled introductions
Allow both animals to be in the same room at the same time, but keep the dog securely leashed.

If the dog has any leash aggression issues you will want to put him/her in a crate to settle in first and then bring the cat into the room. This will give the cat the chance to investigate the dog and will show you the dog’s reaction to the cat.

Continue with this type of introduction until the dog is calm and ignores the cat and the cat is calm, eating and using the litter box normally.

If there is any fear or aggression displayed on either animal’s part, stay at step 2 longer.

Once both the dog and cat are relaxed around each other you can take the dog off the leash or out of the crate for supervised interactions.

Continue indefinitely until both the dog and cat seem happy and relaxed around each other.

When no one is home, the dog or cat need to be securely confined to separate areas so unsupervised interactions are not possible.

Step 4: Allow unsupervised interactions
Unsupervised time together can occur after the cat and dog have been supervised around each other for a significant period of time (a month or so) and you are positive they will not hurt each other.

Warning Signs
If the dog remains overly focused; does not take their eyes off the cat or the door; completely ignores you or lunges suddenly as soon as the cat moves, this is probably a dangerous match. If you are looking for a dog to live peaceably with your cat, another dog might be a better choice. If at any time the dog lunges toward, growls, snaps at or shows any aggression toward a calm, quiet cat, this match will not work out. For the safety and health of all of your family members, the dog should be returned to us or rehomed to someone who can provide a safe environment. The same holds true if a cat attacks a calm, quiet dog. If you are committed to make the relationship work, you will need professional help and should contact us for assistance.

If your cat is growling, hissing, or swatting, give the cat a break and try again on another day. You might also need to try a different dog. A cat that continually hisses and growls at all types of dogs will likely not want to live with dogs. Your cat may tolerate a dog, but they probably won’t be happy — which is an unfair situation for your cat.

If the cat stops eating, drinking, using the litter box or visiting with family members, they are not happy. You might want to consider finding a better match or contacting a professional animal behaviorist for advice.

Extra Help

If you need more assistance please call Woods Humane Society at 805‐543‐9316 ext. 10. We are happy to give more tips or resources to help with the introduction. If the introduction does not work out or the dog and cat are unhappy together, please call Woods to return the animal. We will be happy to find that animal a forever family without cats or dogs and help to find a more suitable pet for your family if possible.

Behavior Problem Solving

Our Methods
Woods Humane Society uses a method of training known to many as Positive Reinforcement. This method is based on Learning Theory and states: if an animal is reinforced for a behavior it is likely that that behavior will be repeated.

Reinforcement comes in many forms, but for dogs it generally fits into one, or all, of the following categories:

• Food
• Affection / Attention
• Play / Toys

All dogs enjoy the above list, but for each dog the order is often different. One dog can be highly motivated by toys and still another can simply LOVE to bet petted.

When you think of a dog that is pleasant to live with, you may think of the following things:

• No pulling on the leash
• No jumping
• Good with children of all ages
• Trustworthy - won't bite
• Good with strangers - but still protective
• Leaves things alone
• Comes when called
• Doesn't run off
• Safe around other dogs and cats
• Social and friendly

When your dog does not exhibit these behaviors it can be frustrating. Let’s take another look at that list and consider what a dog actually is and how it behaves normally.

A dog is an animal that chases, bites, digs things up, runs around and is often territorial. All things that do not fit very well in our human lifestyle! So when we expect that our dogs do not do these things, we expect the unnatural.

If we take a different approach in training and first realize where dogs are coming from; then let them know that we understand them; and finally teach them what we would like them to do in order to fit into our lives, everything will be easier. Dogs do not come pre-packaged and ready to own. There is work involved, it is work that will take some effort on our part but will result in a lifelong companion that is truly a part of the family.

We begin training with small pieces of food that motivate your dog to pay attention and realize that there are benefits to listening. Food is a wonderful motivator and helps get you and your dog on the right track for fast, fun, eager learning. Later we lessen the treats and add other types of reinforcement such as praise and play time.

Many people have questions or reservations about training with food; they are concerned about their pet gaining weight or begging at the table. This won't be a problem as the size of the food treat is very small and the treats are used for training only.

Lastly, remember that Woods Humane Society is here to help. We offer free behavior assistance to our adopters and also a variety of fun and informative training classes! Contact us for more information. 

Crate Training

What is a dog crate?
A dog crate is a rectangular enclosure with a top and a door, made in a variety of sizes, proportioned to fit any size of dog. Constructed of wire or molded plastic, its purpose is to provide a safe haven, “bedroom” or den for your dog to call his or her own. Crating will also provide security, safety, house training assistance, travel assistance and a cozy bed for nighttime.

In the wild dogs often use self-made dens for housing. If your dog could talk, it would tell you that it has a natural instinct to “den” or have a safe space to relax where they will not feel threatened. A dog with a den is much happier, has fewer behavior issues, and is more confident with the control that a structured environment provides. Dogs would much rather be prevented from causing trouble, than be punished for it later.

How NOT to use a Crate!
Crating is a temporary tool used for puppies and dogs to housetrain and to prevent destructive behavior. The goal is to gradually reduce the puppies’ need for the crate until it can be safely left alone. In the case of the adult dog with a behavior problem, the goal is also to gradually reduce your need for the crate. Again, using it only as a tool to prevent the problem while in training is the proper use for a crate.

It is not recommended for a dog regularly left alone all day and the maximum amount of time any adult dog should spend in a crate safely is about 6 hours. If crated for 6 hours the dog must be well exercised both, before and after crating, given lots of personal attention, and not crated at night. It is also most important that the crate be large enough to permit him or her to comfortably stretch out on its side and have ample freedom of movement.

Are Timeouts OK?
Yes, timeouts are fine, but only if done properly! If your puppy gets TOO crazy and cannot focus on anything but play, it is fine to use the crate as a timeout. Since the crate is their safe spot to relax, that is exactly what it will do. The reason time outs work is because dogs have learned to associate crate time with relaxation and sleep. ONLY keep them in the crate for a limited time (3minutes). Anything past 3 minutes will be pointless and can become punishment. They will not remember why they are in there! Remember, we want to keep their crate a positive space.
Timeouts are simply just to relax them not punish them.

What size crate should I get?
A crate should always be large enough to permit any size dog to stretch out flat on its side without being cramped and to sit up without hitting its head on the top. While the adult size of a purebred puppy is easy to predict, you will have to estimate that of a mixed breed based on general breed/body type and puppy size at a given age. It is always better to use a crate a little too large than one a little too small.

For a fully-grown adult dog, measure the distance from tip of nose to base (not tip) of tail and use a crate close to, but not less than, this length. The height and width of most crates are properly proportioned to the length, including the convenient “slant-front” models designed to fit station wagons and hatchbacks.

For a puppy, measure as above, than add about 12” for anticipated rapid growth. Reduce the extra space of a too large crate with a reversed carton or a moveable/removable partition made of wire, wood or a rolled up blanket. Remember that a crate too large for a young puppy (the puppy can walk back and forth from front to back.) defeats its purpose of providing security and promoting bowel control, so its space should always be limited in the beginning.

Where should I put the crate?
When using a crate to confine a dog during training, it is important to avoid making him feel isolated or banished. Place the crate in a place where the dog can see you but make sure it is away from a high traffic area, we do not want the dog to feel the need to protect his territory! Keeping it in a calm, quiet place in the house will help avoid any territorial issues in the future. Also be sure to select a spot free from drafts and not too near a direct heat source.

Make it very clear to children that the crate is NOT a playhouse for them, but a “special room” for the puppy, whose rights should be recognized and respected. However, you should accustom the puppy from the start to letting you reach into the crate at any time.

How long can my puppy be in the crate?
Puppies cannot be expected to “hold it” for an entire workday. A good rule of thumb to assist you is to remember your puppies’ age (in months) and associate that with the number of hours your pup can “hold it.” 3 months of age = 3 hours. Be sure to avoid long good byes and excited play just before you leave. Toss in a treat and a toy, shut the door and leave.

How do I get started?
Leave the door open and place a blanket and a toy inside. Encourage the dog to investigate by luring him inside. Toss treats such as cheese or hotdogs into the far end. Be sure to praise enthusiastically. You can even try feeding meals in the crate.

Continue this pattern for several days, while you are home. Encouraging your dog to enter the crate shut the door for a few minutes at a time (while people are visible or audible nearby. If your dog remains quiet, reward him / her by letting them out of the crate. If the dog is barking or whining, IGNORE. Do not EVER let him/her out for whining! However, the minute the dog is quiet, that’s when you can let it out. The dog will learn very quickly that barking gets them nothing, but quiet gets them attention!

Try leaving for 5 minutes and come back in. Do not go to the crate or pay attention to your dog, simply wait for them to be relaxed and then (after 2 minutes) let them out. After a few days, you can extend the time and gradually get your dog used to being alone longer.

How do I crate my pup at night?
Keep in mind that your first night with your puppy may be a sleepless one. But it is necessary to ignore the dog when barking! If you do not, you will only be making it worse on yourself! Make sure your dog has gone outside before putting him in the crate this will ensure that he is not whining because he needs to eliminate! It’s also a good idea to restrict water intake for about an hour before bed. Remember that your dog’s metabolism slows down by quite a bit when lying down, so he will not have to eliminate as much during the night. However, the first couple nights you should be taking him/her out a few times depending on their age. Remember to ONLY let the puppy out when it is calm. If he starts getting overly excited or whining when he sees you, simply turn your back until he stops. We recommend to clients to use the nearest corner: When the dog barks hide behind the corner, the second he is quiet pop back into sight.

Does the Crate Always Work?
Unfortunately, no. Although a crate can indeed be successfully by most pet owner, some dogs cannot or will not tolerate confinement. If despite every effort, a dog is obviously frantic or very anxious when confined then a crate is not recommended. If you are having problems crate training call Woods Humane Society for assistance at (805) 543-9316 x 24

House Training

Establishing a routine:
Both human and canines are creatures of habit, we are both highly routine oriented. This means you must try to stick to the same schedule in order for your dog to understand that if they hold their urine they will be able to go out soon. The problem when you do not establish a routine is that they cannot predict when they will be able to go outside and will simply release themselves whenever they have to go!

Scheduled feedings are also VERY important when housetraining. If you’re leaving food down all day, your dog will need to go all day! By feeding scheduled meals you will know exactly when your dog needs to go out (usually immediately after meals depending on your dog’s age).

Any dog that is not completely housebroken should not have freedom of the house! Use baby gates to block off rooms, limit your dog to one or two rooms in the house. Freedom is earned, if your dog is one who goes off in another room to potty, let’s not give him/her the option to do so OR attach the leash to YOU. This way she/he cannot sneak off and go in a different room!

The Crate:
The reason the crate works is because dogs have a rule. This rule is that they will not mess where they eat and sleep. So if the crate is the correct size (just large enough for them to turn around, no marathon running!) they will not mess in their crate. Also, dogs are den animals, meaning they like confinement, it is a safe spot! The crate may look big and scary to us, but to a dog it is a safe den. Anytime you know you cannot watch your dog, put them in their crate. When you let them out make sure you IMMEDIATELY take them outside to go potty. Please see the Crate Training section for more information.

If you catch them in the act:
Remember - punishment does NOT work! Dogs live in the moment, meaning a minute after they pee they already forgot! So taking them over to a mess that you find an hour later and “scolding” them or saying no just doesn’t make sense. They don’t understand English and basically all you’re teaching them is that YOU are bad, not that the behavior is bad. This is when you will get a dog that will simply not pee in front of you. Let’s try to remember that it is a natural bodily function and to yell at them for doing it is like you being yelled at for breathing! All we need to do is TEACH them that in the human world, it is only acceptable to pee outside. When you catch them in the act the best thing to do is simply distract them. A simple “hey” or clap of the hands is enough. Quickly grab the end of their leash (leashes should be left on the dog all the time in the house during this training period!), and take them outside to their spot. When they do pee/poop outside throw a party!!!!

Leaving the leash on:
Leave your dog’s leash on inside and let him/her drag it around (in the already confined rooms!). This way you can quickly pick it up if you need to stop them from getting into something, jumping on counters, and having accidents. Remember that touch is reward, so anytime you touch your dog you are reinforcing the behavior they are currently doing. Plus it’s much easier to step on a leash than it is to catch a dog, and you won’t need to fumble around trying to find the leash if you catch them in the act!

Going outside:
Pick a spot! It is a natural behavior for a dog to choose a spot in the yard where he/she prefers to pee/poop. If your dog has not chosen one already, pick one! Every time you go outside go straight to this spot. If your dog is not 100% housetrained, outside needs to mean pee/poop time ONLY! Meaning NO play! The problem is that dogs view outside as a really fun place to be, there are tons of smells, and birds, squirrels and things to look at. They go outside, have a great time and forget to pee/poop. Then we bring them inside, let them off the leash, they become bored, and suddenly remember they have to pee/poop. This is when accidents occur!

The 10/3 Rule:
Example: Let’s say its 6 am and you are just taking your dog out:

Go to your potty spot and stand still or limit your walking to small circles. Wait 10 minutes. Do not go for a walk, pat, play, feed or pay attention to your pup. Be a “tree”!

If your dog does not go then, go back inside and place in the crate or stand at the door with the leash on. Giving no attention AT ALL, be boring! Wait 3 minutes. Then back outside to the potty spot.

Allow 10 minutes to do their business. If they do not go then it’s back inside for 3 minutes. After 3 minutes of no attention at all, back outside for 10 minutes.

Once your dog DOES go; throw a party! Give a treat, throw a ball, and give attention and love! By going in and out you are setting your dog up to succeed. We simply need them to associate outside with potty only!

Remember that there are other types of rewards other than food! Find what your dog absolutely craves and use it as a reward. Some common rewards are: food, freedom, play, attention, and touch praise. So use these to get what you want by WITHOLDING them until you get what you want. Remember that nothing in life is free! Anytime your dog pees/poops outside you should be throwing a party!

Clean up all accidents with a commercial odor neutralizer. We highly recommend *Natures Miracle found at most pet stores or *Kids and Pets found at Walmart. This type of product breaks down (using enzymes or bacteria) the organic matter that causes the odor. Cleaning up with ammonia or pine based cleansers will not neutralize the odor. If there is any residual odor left after cleaning, chances are good that the dog will return to the spot. (Like we discussed, it is a natural behavior for dogs to choose a spot and stick to it!)

The Importance of Exercise

For any breed exercise is extremely important. Think about what your breed was meant to do. Was he bred to be a hunter? A herder? When we keep our dogs as nonworking pets, they do not get as much exercise as they require. This results in boredom. When a dog is bored they develop all kinds of bad behaviors like; destructive behavior, reactive behavior and excessive barking.

Everyone works and every family is gone for longer periods of time. So, make sure you give your dog a good, daily workout before you leave. Both mental and physical work is necessary and great stimulation. Mental work can be the equivalent of a 2 mile run! So, give them something to do while you are not home. Interactive toys like Kong’s are great ways to get their brains working. Stuff them with peanut butter and freeze it overnight, making it more difficult to lick it out! Ice toys are also a great idea: fill a bowl with water, throw some treats, carrots, peanut butter and toys in, freeze it overnight, run it under hot water, pop it out and Voila! You’ve got yourself an interactive toy that will keep your dog busy for hours! Agility is great for active, smart and fast moving dogs.
The sport has problem solving, climbing, running and training all wrapped into one fun activity.

Dog backpacks are great for any dog that just doesn’t tire easily. Add your keys, bottled water or two jars of pickles (evenly distributed), making the walk take on a whole different meaning and giving your dog a job. Of course the key to this is to make the backpack positive and fun. So please don’t slap it on, throw in weights, and go for your first walk with it. Teach your dog to be comfortable first by putting it on empty…walk around and offer treats and petting then take it off. Next time keep it on longer, walk outside and reward. Then tighten it up, make it fit right and walk, then add something to the pack like two bottles of water and walk. Be sure to reward with praise, petting and a treat. Once your dog is comfortable wearing the pack around the house and outside; try going for a walk with it on. Then add something heavier and make sure the weight is even on both sides of the backpack!

If you are a bike rider, consider taking your dog with you! There are great products available that attach to the bike with springs so the dog can pull and you will not feel any of the tension on the bike. Of course make sure your dog is comfortable walking and running next to a bike. If your dog is not ready for it: slowly introduce the bike while rewarding for every step he/she takes next to it. If your dog is one who pulls on the leash when you are first heading out for your walk, try going in your backyard and playing a quick game of fetch before going for a walk. This will get that extra pent up energy out and will make your loose leash training a lot easier! Remember, set him up to succeed.

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